Trailblazing in Climbing: Carol Simpson’s First Ascent at Smith Rock
An avid rock climber and climbing guide for over 20 years, Carol Simpson founded First Ascent Climbing Services in 1996, becoming the first female founder and owner of a rock climbing guide service in the Northwest. She began First Ascent Climbing Services at Smith Rock State Park, in Terrebonne, Oregon and, a few years later, became the co-owner of the Redpoint Climbers Supply.
Breaking Barriers: The First Woman-Owned Guide Service at Smith Rock
Born in the southeast of the United States in 1944, Carol grew up in a culture where women rarely participated in sports and were not encouraged to do so. As a teenager, she felt pressure to be feminine which, at the time, meant aspiring to traditions like marriage and children, rather than athletics. However Carol embraced her interest in athletics and became an avid tennis player, stepping out of the norms of her community. Though she started rock climbing at 42 years old, she did not let sexism or ageism stop her from starting her own guide service and sharing her passion with others. Under her ownership, First Ascent Climbing Services was also the first American Mountain Guide Association Accredited guide service at Smith Rock and one of the first to acquire AMGA Accreditation in the United States.
Connecting & Empowering Women through Climbing
Carol made it a goal and personal mission to get more local women interested in climbing and to combine their skills to form a supportive environment for women in the sport. She formed a climbing group called Climb Like a Girl; a women’s affinity meet-up group, to climb together and share and develop skills. She organized and ran free clinics for women through her guide service and climbing shop the Redpoint Climber Supply.
Today, Carol is still climbing strong at 77 years old. She has a new climbing group for women in the Bishop area of California. Her fitness and commitment to the climbing life is still pushing the perceived limits of sexism and ageism in the sport. Listen to her story in her own words on The Nugget Climbing Podcast.
Continuing the Legacy: Chockstone Climbing Guides
Anne Ablao is the second woman to own a guide service at Smith Rock State Park, along with her husband, Jim Ablao. Jim worked with Carol from 1999-2003 and then started Chockstone Climbing Guides with Anne in 2004. Shortly after, Anne and Jim bought First Ascent when Carol moved away from Central Oregon that same year. They have since blended First Ascent Climbing Services with Chockstone Climbing Guides and strive to inspire the next generation of climbers and share the commitment to carry on in the spirit and passion that started with Carol.
The Nugget Climbing Podcast shares stories that dive into the world of climbing, personal growth, and the human experience that connects us all. Check out their podcast to hear more inspiring stories like Carol’s.
